Valparaiso has a total of 15 ascensores, which are more like funiculars, and which have been fixtures of the city for over one hundred years. After checking into a fantastic hostel (that was also a bargain for around $11 US per night) atop Cerro Concepcion, we meandered through the lively street-vendor-filled narrow streets before taking an ascensor, or elevator, down to the foot of the hill to begin our quest for dinner. And that's more or less what my friends and I did. Honestly, I could have spent an entire weekend walking the romantic winding streets that snake up and down the hills.
Bland suburban-America-off-white? Absolutely not. And when I say vibrantly colored, I mean vi bra ntly col ored! You want a bright purple house? Valparaiso has about a thousand. Basically, the image that I'm trying to paint is one of large hills peppered with tightly-packed, vibrantly colored houses. Think of a beautiful, non-life-threatening version of the favelas of Rio de Janeiro (no offense to anyone who lives there! I meant no disrespect!). While the city center is representative of your average Latin American centro-high-rises, plazas with fountains, and bustling central avenues, it's the cerros, or hills, located on the fringes of the town, that really set Valparaiso apart. The first thing I noticed upon getting out of the bus was the absolute color overload that characterizes this city! Seriously, If you're at all susceptible to seizures, avoid this place at all costs. By the way, I sure hope "the city by the bay" is really a nickname for San Francisco, because I'm not editing this blog. Well, that, and maybe a more liberal, bohemian mentality than Santiago. While Valparaiso is hilly in nature, that is about the only trait it shares with the city by the bay. The guide books will say something akin to "this place reminds of San Francisco," but I'm not buying it. Definitely the most important of Chile's port cities, Valparaiso's nickname is "the jewel of the Pacific," and while much of the city may have fallen into poverty and disrepair over the last century, it is still tremendously enchanting. Seriously.Īnyway, two weekends ago, I (along with my fellow US study abroad students) visited the quaint port city of Valparaiso-about one-hour-and- a-half from Santiago as the bus drives. To the half-handful or so who may be following this blog, sorry about that. Check out the catch of the day, I would have tried it if I hadn’t eaten salmon earlier.So I guess it's been about 10 days, or so, since my last entry.
Definitely worth a visit for the tasty bites. Our table was one of few that were speaking English. Do enjoy the views and I’m surprised this place wasn’t over run by tourists. Overall, don’t expect the swiftest service. My girlfriend ordered a beef dish with potatoes and I marveled at her that you never order meat at a seafood oriented place, and even they nailed the beef just right. I would never have thought of mixing the two, but they’re that odd couple that you don’t think would work out but actually are perfect for each other. The main course I ordered was a mix of quinoa with grilled shrimp baked in. We split an appetizer, of cheese, tomatoes, bread and onions on a little pan grill and it was supremely delicious. I had a local craft beer, which was surprisingly good given Chile’s not so stellar reputation in this department (great wine and pisco though). The food and drink more than made up for it though. The service was a bit slow at first, we probably didn’t order for at least 10 – 15 minutes. I think as a tourist, there’s nothing like seeing a panorama on your first night of a city. Our table was right on the edge of the indoor space so we had an excellent view of both Valparaiso and Vina Del Mar. The restaurant is partially indoors and partially outdoors. 25 cents) fee for the view alone! On to the review. The area is next to one of the oldest funiculars (Queen Victoria) in town. Came here on the recommendation of one of the owners of our Inn.
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